DAY 3

Koytepa

Kojtepa is a fortified settlement covering roughly one hectare, set in the heart of what is today the Samarkand steppe. For many centuries, this landscape—now characterized by intensive agriculture and photovoltaic fields—was largely free of permanent settlements or cultivated land. Until recent times, it served only as a seasonal pasture area for local pastoral communities during the summer and autumn months.

The site and its surrounding environment have been the subject of extensive, long-term photographic and field surveys conducted by Italian research teams from the University of Naples “L’Orientale” and the University of Bologna. These investigations were carried out with the scientific and financial support of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, as well as ISMEO – the International Association for Mediterranean and Oriental Studies in Rome.

Geoarchaeological studies reveal that Kojtepa once stood at the center of a thriving, densely populated region, sustained by a sophisticated irrigation system that enabled large-scale agriculture. The settlement lay within an artificial “mesopotamia” formed by two major canals—the Dargom and the Eski Angar—along with a network of smaller waterways.

Decades of excavation have uncovered evidence of continuous occupation from the Hellenistic period (3rd century BCE) through to the early Middle Ages, just prior to the Islamic conquest of Samarkand in 712 CE.

Among the site’s most remarkable discoveries are large storage jars (khum) used for preserving food and liquids, as well as grinding stones, pestles, and paleobotanical remains. Together, these findings highlight the predominantly agricultural character of this ancient settlement.

Dargom Riverbed

The Dargom Riverbed shifts the focus explicitly back to water. Historically one of the most significant irrigation canals in the region, the Dargom embodies the engineering heritage of Central Asia. Its course testifies to centuries of collective labour, enabling agriculture and sustaining communities. Standing at this site, visitors will perceive water not only as a natural force but as a cultural artifact, embedded in human effort and ingenuity.

Kafir Kala Archaeological Site

The fortified settlement of Kafir Kala reveals the interplay between religion, politics, and defence in ancient Samarkand’s hinterlands. Its archaeological layers reveal how communities sought to secure both spiritual and material survival. As with many other sites, water access was crucial, once again uniting the three overarching themes of heritage, water, and community.

Rising discreetly along the banks of the Dargom River, just twelve kilometers south of ancient Afrasiab, the fortified settlement of Kafir Kala stands as one of Uzbekistan’s most compelling yet lesser-known archaeological landscapes. Once positioned on a strategic north–south route linking Samarkand with Shahrisabz, the site reveals the multilayered history of the Sogdian world—merchants, administrators, and agricultural communities whose influence shaped Central Asia for centuries. Excavations have uncovered more than 700 clay sealings from the pre-Islamic citadel, clear evidence of Kafir Kala’s role as an important regional administrative hub. Its urban layout, composed of ark, shahristan, and rabad, mirrors the classic structure of major Central Asian cities, condensed here into a uniquely preserved microcosm of ancient urban life

Today, Kafir Kala is not only a site of remarkable historical value but also a frontier for innovative heritage management. Listed by UNESCO in 2023 as part of the Zarafshan–Karakum Silk Road Corridor, the site is now at the center of an ambitious project that brings together archaeologists, local communities, and regional institutions. Collaborative efforts—fostered through the Kalam project—aim to transform the area into a dynamic archaeological park, integrating cutting-edge research with community-based perspectives on heritage stewardship

For travelers seeking an alternative and intellectually enriching itinerary, Kafir Kala offers a rare opportunity: to walk through the remains of a Sogdian citadel, to witness ongoing archaeological work, and to engage with a living landscape where past and present meet. Far from the more frequented monuments of Samarkand, this site invites visitors to experience a different kind of authenticity—one grounded in scientific discovery, local memory, and the quietly powerful traces of a civilization that once connected worlds.