By Dragan Umek
Between 19 and 31 May 2025, Claudio and I conducted field visits in several countries affected by ‘the route’ (Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Greece and North Macedonia). The trip was divided into several stages and preceded by intensive preparatory work.
The first stage of the trip was a two-day research tour along the Serbian-Bulgarian border conducted with a local organisation.. On the first day we travelled north of Pirot, through a vast, mountainous border area dotted with small villages and dirt tracks. On the second day, we travelled south of Dimitrovgrad, visiting an area that was also sparsely inhabited. Both areas revealed visible evidence of sporadic recent crossings, which are significantly reduced compared to a year ago but still persistent. Although in the past this area was a substantial “stopping point” it is now largely a transit zone due to the closure of the two camps in Pirot and Dimitrovgrad.
The trip then continued to Sofia, where a series of meetings had been arranged with local activists and academic colleagues conducting similar research on the 'Balkan Route'.
The following day was dedicated to visiting the large Harmanli registration and reception centre, which is located a few kilometres from the Turkish border. In the evening, we crossed the border into Turkey and spent the night in Edirne.
The following day, after a long journey, we arrived in Istanbul, where we were joined by cultural mediator Shahid Aziz. Our time in Istanbul was filled with interviews with refugees and local traders who sell equipment dedicated to the 'Game'. Visiting the main neighbourhoods with a strong migrant presence provided us with interesting insights into how the 'Game' is planned and organised before departure.
En route back (via Greece), we crossed the border near the Evros River and observed heavy militarisation of the entire area on both sides.
Finally, we stopped in Skopje for meetings with a UN representative there, and in Belgrade for meetings with a local organization, before returning to Trieste—the end of ‘the route’ for this trip.