Author: Nicolás Prior González
1. Introduction
We call “castilian armour” to all the different protections knights used to wear in between the XII and XVI century, from what was called the “Corona de Castilla” (Castilian Crown), with bellic and swanking purposes. The object of the study was chosen with the goal of being able to have a deeper understanding of how this, now ancient, garments, used to serve physically, but more precisely in fashion terms. This project will focus specifically in the XIV and XV centuries. Armour used to be a showing off element, how now a Birkin bag can be. Expensive, shiny and special, “unique”. A differentiation object, that at least used to have more utility rather than just caring for your phone. It served as protection, but also a way of expressing yourself and your personality, at the end of the day, fashion. This was exactly what motivated me to talk about this topic, how behind a group of metallic plates, and a heavy mesh coat, you could find a real human that had chosen how he wanted to look, how he wanted to be perceived by others and of course, how much fear or respect he wanted to manifest.
2.Description of the subject
Humans have been using armour since thousands of years ago back in history for protective purposes. It could be said that the beginning of the use of armor was in Egypt in the year 4,000 BC, the materials used in most armors used to be crocodile skin and leather reinforced with bronze. Taking this into account, the first castilian armour doesn't really have a date, as it would be impossible to agree on what the concept of armour exactly refers to, so we will be specifying this research on the “Armadura de placas” (plate armour). Covering the XIV and XV centuries felt like a correct decision in terms of research as the sets of armour that were starting to be created in that era of the Iberian Peninsula had such a more detailed structure and a very deeper understanding of how the human body functions in terms of mobility. Different ways of approaching body joints started being used in this era, such as the one created for “resting” crafted for Felipe II (King of Spain), known as the “Armadura de Parada de Felipe II”, that featured intricate unions between the metallic and decorative pieces. This all could be read, from the fashion point of view, that the armours used from kings and nobles used to have a significant role in how others perceived them. Power and solidity were the main features that one of these protections had to transmit. There used to be clear intentions on enhancing the “role model” of the era man. Big chests, dark or polished textures and huge helmets, which used to be associated with power and intelligence.
3. Designers from the same area
If we had to ask ourselves which Spanish designer had the best approach and the earliest to armour, in terms of what we understand for modern fashion, it would clearly have to be the famous well known designer Paco Rabbane. Paco Rabbane was born in 1934 in Spanish Basque Country. He was born right after the world war and because of his family situation he had to migrate to France in the first years of his life. Despite having a humble and straightforward childhood, at the age of 36 he was already a well trained architect, who was on a mission to project his skills to the fashion industry and history. This would be a key element into his art in the future, as he created elevated and sophisticated clothes that could be easily seen as beautiful structures for the human silhouette. The best example of this trident between fashion designing, architecture and Spanish XIV and XV century armour, would be his 1966 Summer Spring collection ““Armaduras metálicas” (“Metalic Armours”), were he dressed his models with different examples of this protective clothes that had such a jet, unique jet robust and empowering features. There is a famous phrase to remember from this unrepeated fashion show that summarizes in an outstanding way the philosophy of armour combined with the, current then, and nowadays, social reflection: "Women were fighters, so I dressed them in armor."
Conclusion
From the medieval Castilian armours to Paco Rabanne’s metallic dresses and Mugler’s futuristic silhouettes, the concept of protection has remained a timeless symbol of power and identity. What once shielded warriors on the battlefield now protects individuality and creativity on the runway. Designers have continuously reinterpreted the armour as a reflection of human strength, sensuality, and self-expression. This evolution reveals how fashion transforms history into innovation, and material into meaning. Ultimately, the armour, whether made of steel or fabric, stands as a metaphor for confidence, a wearable declaration of who we are and how we wish to be seen.
Bibliography
Real Armería
By Container: Patrimonio NacionalYear: 2020 URL: https://www.patrimonionacional.es/colecciones-reales/real-armeria
Fury, A. (2023, July 7). At Balenciaga, Clothing as Armour With a Truly Modern Twist. Retrieved November 3, 2025, from AnOther Website: https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/14984/balenciaga-autumn-winter-2023-aw23-fw23-haute-couture-show-review-demna